500 years of fascinating architecture in Havana
There is no denying that with 500 years of history behind it, Havana’s architecture is an eclectic mix of styles, each reflecting the spirit of Cuban architecture. It is a treasure trove of delights frozen in time. The architecture in Havana is also a photographer’s dream. It provides glimpses into the past and the Cuban people that made Havana what it is today. Unsurprisingly, it got me completely hooked when I stepped there so many years ago.
Whether you’re wandering the streets of Old Havana (Habana Vieja), strolling along the popular Malecon promenade, or exploring the neighbourhood of Miramar, you’ll encounter a rich diversity of architectural styles. Some buildings in the Cuban capital have been beautifully restored, while others stand as poignant reminders of the passage of time.
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The history behind architecture in Havana
Havana’s architecture is directly influenced by Cuban history. Past events have added to the city’s collection of styles through the ages, which are crucial for understanding the city itself.
In 1519, the Spaniards laid the foundation of Havana, a city strategically nestled in the natural harbour, now known as the Bay of Havana. This location, a gateway to the New World, made it a convenient stop for Spanish ships laden with treasures en route to Europe. However, this prosperity also made Havana a prime target for pirates, buccaneers, and privateers, adding a thrilling chapter to its history.
With its strategic position, Havana became a shipping and commercial port for ships travelling between the Old World and the New World. The city and its economy grew, especially in the agricultural and manufacturing sectors. Both fulfilling the needs of the shipping industry and those that operated it. With money came the construction of many stately homes and buildings.
Havana during the 18th and 19th centuries
By the mid-18th century, Havana had become a prosperous port and the third-largest port city in North America. The British briefly captured it during the Seven Years’ War before it returned under Spanish rule. These events not only opened up new trade routes but also transformed Cuban society, creating a unique blend of cultures in Havana’s architecture. Later, many French settlers arrived in Cuba from Haiti after the slave revolts of 1791, seeking refuge and bringing their own distinct style, adding to the city’s cultural tapestry.
Post-Spanish independence and American influence
American interests in Cuba in later years were inevitable. Many slave owners moved to Cuba after the American Civil War in 1865 to continue running plantations and investing their money in different interests in the city. Massive expansions and the changing face of architecture in Havana grew the city’s size and population.
After the independence from Spain, the old European influences were cast aside in favour of new American ones. Brand new buildings added a new air of style to Havana. Many wealthy Americans invested money into real estate and influenced the new era of development. It wasn’t long before there was a new breed of outlaws with their sights on Havana – the mob.
Pre- and post-revolution architecture
The 1940s and 1950s were wild times in Havana. This was the world movies were based on, and books were written about. On the one hand, it was a playground for the rich and famous. On the other, it was a world of poverty, oppression and inequality—the perfect storm brewing under the surface.
After the Revolution, the state seized foreign-owned properties, including residences, offices, casinos, etc., ending the age of excess. This was when time stopped for the architectural gems of the past. While the new additions included government-motivated monuments and Soviet-style buildings that lacked imagination, Havana’s architecture’s remainder was left to time and elements.
Early military architecture
After the French pirate Jacques de Sores easily invaded, plundered and burned down Havana in 1555, the Spanish decided to build fortresses and fortifications to protect the city. Thinking about their significance in protecting against pirate attacks in the early 16th century gives you a different perspective on how important and valuable Havana was in those days. These defensive structures still exist today, offering an interesting look into the city’s military past and adding to Havana’s eclectic style of architecture.
Castillo de la Real Fuerza (Fort of the Royal Force)
The Castillo de la Real Fuerza, completed in 1577, is Havana’s oldest fort. This star-shaped structure with the surrounding moat took almost 20 years and the lives of many forced labourers to complete. During the fort’s early days, the Spanish crown’s gold was deposited here on its way back to Spain. The Captain-General, Cuba’s governor, also had his official residence here until 1762.
The bell tower, a 1632 addition, has an intriguing bronze weather vane named La Giraldilla. Shaped like a woman holding a palm, it is the official symbol of Havana and Havana rum. The common belief is that it’s a tribute to the city’s only female governor, Isabel de Bobadilla. Assuming the post after her husband’s departure on an expedition, she spent years looking out on the ocean, waiting for his return.
Castillo de los Tres Santos Reyes Magnos del Morro (Fort Morro)
The fortress Castillo de Los Tres Santos Reyes Magnos del Morro dates back to 1587. Slaves used rocks extracted from the moats to construct it along with the polygon shape of the rock it sits on. Those imprisoned here didn’t fare well either, as they were often fed to the sharks through the holes in the back walls. If only these walls could talk, the stories they would tell would be horrific.
Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta (Fort San Salvador)
The Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, along with Castillo de Los Tres Reyes del Morro and Castillo de la Real Fuerza, appears on Havana’s coat of arms. Completed around 1630, this was one of the most important defensive structures in colonial times.
For centuries, a 250-metre chain between San Salvador and del Morro served as a defensive system against the pillaging ships. However, it wasn’t the pirates that eventually damaged the fort. It sustained severe damage during the British invasion of mid-1700.
Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana (Fort San Carlos)
After the British captured Havana, the Spaniards fortified the city with a 700-metre-long fortress, the largest in the Americas. The Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana, completed in 1774 and named to honour King Carlos III, was an effective addition to the city’s fortifications.
The fort, designed using the most advanced defective concepts of the time, served as a prison, execution site and eventually Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara’s command headquarters after the 1959 Revolution. One of the big tourist attractions is firing the cannon at La Cabana fortress each night at 9 p.m. It is a long-standing tradition that originated to signal the nightly closure of city gates.
Spanish Influence: colonial architecture
NOTE: Spanish colonial refers to Spanish rule in Cuba from the time of conquistador Velazquez’s arrival in 1511 until 1898, when Cuba gained independence from Spain. This includes variations of different styles that were influenced by and introduced into Cuba through Spain.
The Spanish brought with them their own style of architecture, which was dominant in Spain at that time. Colonial buildings with uncovered terraces dominated the style, but semi-enclosed porches also became popular. This was a direct response to Cuba’s heat and dramatic weather, which was more pronounced here than in Europe.
The best example of Spanish colonial architecture is in Old Havana (Havana Vieja). Here, you’ll find much of that period’s architecture, including buildings with balconies, wrought-iron gates and internal courtyards. The large windows, fitted with security bars, effectively let the air in while keeping unwanted visitors out.
The Slave trade was a massive part of Cuba’s economy between the 16th and 19th centuries, supporting the local sugar plantations. Many colonial mansions were built with basements or mezzanine levels to accommodate the house slaves, as there wasn’t a lot of room for separate quarters. It’s not something I’ve ever thought about, but it does make sense when you think about it. Suddenly, those beautiful mansions take on a different, darker perspective.
Over the centuries, many of these buildings fell into disrepair, becoming a shadow of their former glory. The once magnificent Spanish colonial architecture fell into ruin for decades until restoration brought it back to life. Old Havana is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which has helped bring back some of its former glory.
Piazzas and squares
Old Havana’s original urban layout is still clearly visible today. Narrow streets interconnect old urban plazas, each with its own charm. Here, you can admire the many styles of architecture in Havana. You can feel the nostalgia of bygone eras as you stroll around. It’s one of those unique experiences that can take you back in time.
Old Havana’s original urban layout is still clearly visible today. Narrow streets interconnect old urban plazas, each with its own charm. Here, you can admire the many styles of architecture in Havana. You can feel the nostalgia of bygone eras as you stroll around. It’s one of those unique experiences that can take you back in time. There are five main piazzas to visit: Plaza de Armas, Plaza Vieja, Plaza de San Francisco, Plaza del Cristo and
Plaza de la Catedral.
Moorish-inspired architecture
The architecture in Havana that feels surprising at first is one with Moorish features. It’s not something you would expect on an island in the Caribbean until you consider its history. When the Spaniards arrived five centuries ago, Moorish architecture was a familiar part of the Spanish style, brought over from their conquest of the Moors in the Iberian Peninsula. This influence is still visible today in Havana’s architecture, a testament to the city’s rich history.
As I explored Havana, I stumbled upon courtyards, fountains, columns, and tiled details that instantly transported me to Morocco. It was like embarking on a treasure hunt, uncovering these hidden architectural gems in the heart of Havana. This, to me, is the true beauty of travel-the thrill of discovering unexpected similarities and influences of cultures and styles in the most unlikely of places.
During the early 20th century, the Moorish revival style became fashionable, and many of Havana’s buildings in this style originated from that time. To embark on your own architectural treasure hunt, start with the iconic Hotel Nacional de Cuba and the Gran Teatro de La Habana Alicia Alonso. These are prime examples of Moorish-inspired architecture. You can find similar influences in many buildings around Havana. Sometimes, it’s obvious, and sometimes, you have to look very closely to find it. Definitely a great treasure hunt. Our hotel, the Hotel Sevilla, was one of those gems.
We chose to stay at Hotel Sevilla simply because we loved the way it looked. The hotel, a stunning example of Moorish architecture, is a significant part of Havana’s architectural heritage. Many elements reminded me of Morocco, especially the courtyard patio and the lobby, lined with pictures of famous visitors, including Ernest Hemingway. Staying at the Hotel Sevilla was not just a comfortable experience, but also a journey into the architectural history of Havana.
The hotel opened in 1908 and was quite the place to be in its heyday. After 1939, Havana’s mobsters owned and ran the Sevilla, adding more intrigue to its colourful past. It underwent some renovation in recent years, but it’s not quite in the same shape it must have been in its prime. It was a delightful spot for our stay in Havana.
Cuban baroque architecture
Although Baroque was all the rage in Europe around the 16th century, it made its way to Cuba about a century and a half later. Fully embraced by the nouveau-rich sugar merchants and slave owners who didn’t skim on grandeur, the style had to be adapted to local conditions, creating a more streamlined look.
Unlike their European cousins, the Cubans relied on slave labour that lacked advanced stonemasonry skills. As a result, the Cuban baroque architecture became its own style. Elaborate details of traditional baroque were modernized, and other localized features were added. From metal security bars on windows to allow for easy airflow to multicoloured glass panes fitted above doorways to allow the tropical sun into mezzanine floors and galleried exterior walkways.
Today, some of the best examples of Cuban baroque architecture include the Catedral de San Cristóbal and Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales (once a residence of the Spanish Captain-General, today a city museum). You can also spot many other great examples of this architecture in Old Havana. Later examples of Cuban baroque architecture include the stunning Great Theater of Havana, where former U.S. President Barack Obama addressed the Cuban public in 2016 and the National Museum of Fine Arts.
Neoclassical architecture
Somewhere by the mid-19th century, architecture in Havana became all about neoclassical architecture. The beginning of the 20th century brought on a second neoclassical revival and a major building frenzy. Clean, streamlined symmetry, grandiose frontages and imposing columns directly responded to the overly elaborate baroque style.
It was during this time that Havana’s National Capitol building (Capitolio Nacional) and the University of Havana were constructed. The Capitol building, modelled after the one in Washington, is a striking building with a cupola, once the highest point in the city. Other great examples of neoclassical architecture include the Teatro Tomas Terry to Cienfuegos, the Sauto Theatre in Matanzas and Centro Hispano-Americano de Cultura.
Art Deco architecture and eclecticism
I never knew how much I adored Art Deco architecture until I discovered it in Havana. For some reason, this style has not had the same adoption and longevity as the others. In fact, you don’t find that many great examples of Art Deco in the world unless you go to Miami.
As Havana was experiencing a boom economically and developmentally, money was used to fund the latest trends, including Art Deco and eclecticism. This allowed Cuba to reinvent itself. In the wake of Spain’s independence and a newfound economic relationship with the United States, it was a step away from colonialism and old ties with Europe.
If you visit Havana, make sure you see the Bacardi Building. The 12-story beauty, inaugurated in 1930, was the headquarters of the Bacardi rum company and the biggest building in Cuba. Walking inside is like stepping back in time. The doors, chandeliers, and façade of the coffee shop on the mezzanine make it feel like you are in an old movie from the lobby. The tower has a lookout; however, it was closed for construction during our visit. The Bacardi building was by far one of my favourite places in Havana.
Other great examples of Art Deco and eclecticism include the Museo de la Revolución (former presidential palace), Casa de las Americas, Fausto Movie Theater and the Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas (National Museum of Decorative Arts).
Post-revolutionary architecture
The Cuban Revolution not only marked the end of a building boom and foreign interests but also ushered in an era of architectural austerity in Havana. The once vibrant cityscape was now dominated by soulless, faceless, monotonous Soviet-era buildings. A stark contrast to the rich architectural heritage of the past. Yet, these structures, in their own way, contribute to the unique beauty of Havana, adding another layer to its architectural narrative.
Post-revolutionary architecture is not hard to spot in Havana. The iconic Plaza de la Revolución (Revolution Square), the imposing Russian embassy, and the numerous high-rise apartment buildings are all tangible reminders of that transformative era.
final thoughts on architecture in Havana
Havana was once one of the most prosperous cities in the New World, with money flowing in abundance. Part of it is like a time capsule frozen in time. Once glorious mansions crumble after years of neglect, often taking causalities. Many have become Frankenstein’s creations due to their occupants’ desperate DIY upgrades. Dilapidated, they may be, but they are still standing centuries later, a testament to the quality of the work that went into creating them.
There is also another part of architecture in Havana. One that is once again shining in its centuries-old glory. Meticulous restoration efforts have brought back the splendour of what Havana once was. There is still lots more work to be done, one building at a time. Anyone can guess how much can be saved, but with each visit, there is a new discovery.
Imagine a Havana where the Revolution never happened. Many of the city’s historic buildings, with their unique charm, might have been replaced by modern developments. The narrow streets, once a testament to the past, could have been widened to accommodate larger cars, erasing the city’s unique character. Havana could have lost its rich architectural history in the name of progress.
My hope for Havana extends beyond its architectural restoration. I envision a future where not only the cultural buildings, museums and hotels are restored but also the homes of everyday people. Many of these residents live in deplorable conditions, their immediate concerns focused on safety and access to basic amenities. I hope that one day, they, too, can enjoy the beauty and history of the buildings they inhabit.
The Cuban people, like Havana, are resilient and resourceful, and that gives me hope. Havana is an architectural lover’s dream, and I hope this post gave you a glimpse into its beauty.
